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Traditional delicacy fuels growth in Chongqing

Updated: Dec 10, 2024 By TAN YINGZI and DENG RUI in Chongqing China Daily Print
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Zhongxian county in Chongqing province, known for cultivating some of China's most protein-rich soybeans, is dedicated to preserving and revitalizing the ancient craft of fermented bean curd, a traditional Chinese delicacy with a millennia-long history. This effort not only safeguards cultural heritage but also fuels high-quality regional development.

As part of Chongqing's broader strategy to promote unique local specialties, the county focuses on advancing agricultural development and enhancing the growth of distinctive premium agricultural products, according to the local agricultural and rural affairs commission.

Fermented bean curd, often referred to as the "Eastern cheese", is prized for its unique texture, purity and enduring flavor.

In Zhongxian, the tradition of producing fermented bean curd dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and peaked during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

The craft benefits from a unique microbial strain found in mold chambers established in 1734. These strains, known for their diverse enzymatic composition and exceptional degradative properties, contribute to the product's distinctive flavor and quality, local authorities said.

One of the most prominent brands, Zhongzhou Fermented Bean Curd, has been recognized as an intangible cultural heritage in Chongqing.

In 2011, it was designated a nationally protected geographical indication product, and this year, it was added to the Agricultural Products Memory Index Catalog.

"The production process involves converting soybean proteins into amino acids, making high-protein soybeans essential for crafting fermented bean curd," said Huang Daiping, general manager of Chongqing Zhongzhou Fermented Bean Curd Co.

A locally developed soybean variety, with a protein content of 45 to 48 percent, has become the ideal raw material for this delicacy.

Located in central Chongqing and the heart of the Three Gorges Reservoir area, Zhongxian benefits from rolling hills and the nourishing waters of the Yangtze River, creating an ideal environment for soybean cultivation.

Chen Jianbo of the Zhongxian Agricultural and Rural Affairs Commission reported that the county now boasts 25 core soybean demonstration fields.

This year, the soybean cultivation area expanded to 11,140 hectares, producing a record-high yield of 23,300 metric tons. In 2022, Zhongxian was honored as a National Demonstration County for Advancing Soybean Technology.

The county also hosts 21 soybean processing enterprises engaged in fermented bean curd production, tofu manufacturing and initial soybean processing. Last year, these enterprises generated a combined output value of approximately 190.3 million yuan ($26.19 million).

Huang's company, a local industry leader, produced around 12,000 tons of fermented bean curd last year, generating a turnover of 136 million yuan.

By sourcing soybeans, chili peppers and Sichuan peppercorns from local farmers, the company has created jobs and helped increase household incomes by an average of 3,000 yuan annually.

The company offers nearly 20 traditional fermented bean curd varieties and, through its research and development center and seven modern production lines, develops innovative products tailored to diverse needs. These include low-salt and low-sodium versions designed for children, pregnant women and patients.

Huang highlighted the company's efforts to cater to international markets, introducing options like curry-flavored fermented bean curd and salad-ready condiments. These products are distributed nationwide and exported to over a dozen countries and regions, including the UK, Canada, Australia and Singapore, with export revenues totaling 3 million yuan.

By combining traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation, Zhongxian county has created a thriving industry that preserves its cultural heritage while driving economic growth. With its high-protein soybeans and a commitment to quality, Zhongxian is poised to continue setting the standard for fermented bean curd production both domestically and internationally.

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