Zhengding, a small city that exceeds expectations thanks to its rich history

We noticed the baosha buildings, like the main hall, feature flying eaves that stretch meters out from the main structures. Zhao said such a big span is made possible with the support of dougong brackets, a unique Chinese construction component also known as a bucket arch.

"According to Liang, the Muni Hall is the only preserved ancient structure in the world with four baosha buildings," Zhao said. Liang also said he only saw such a structure in some Northern Song Dynasty drawings before visiting Longxing.

Judging from the four baosha buildings and the flying eaves supported by the long dougong brackets, Liang identified the hall as an authentic Northern Song Dynasty remnant. Weathering wind, rain and snow for more than 1,000 years, Zhao said it is among the very few wooden structures of its era preserved in China.

The hall also houses many cultural treasures, which include the five statues of the Buddha and his disciples, which were made in the Northern Song Dynasty, relief sculptures carved in the same period and Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) wall paintings.

Among these, the most impressive is the five-colored relief sculpture of Avalokitesvara.

Avalokitesvara is the bodhisattva of mercy. Along with the spread of Buddhism in China, the image of this bodhisattva was evolving to suit the tastes of Chinese people. Originally, it was a mustached male of slim stature. It later became a female because the Chinese people thought women possess more power of sympathy than men.

The commonly seen Avalokitesvara sculptures in China usually have a stately and solemn air. But the one in the Muni Hall stands out from others.

Her smile and eyes can strike the deepest resonance among visitors. It is the smile and look from a mother, a lover or a friend, according to our observation of visitors' reactions.

Zhao said this sculpture of Avalokitesvara reflected the localization of Buddhism in China, a process to adapt to the values and aesthetics of the Chinese people.

In stark contrast, a huge bronze statue of Avalokitesvara that was erected in the early Northern Song Dynasty stands in the Hall of Supreme Mercy in the same temple. The 24-meter-high statue with dozens of arms and hands gives off a feeling of overwhelming power and solemnity.

The structures in Longxing Temple are not the earliest in Zhengding. The earliest preserved structure is, in fact, a pagoda in Kaiyuan Buddhist Temple to the west. This pagoda is a Tang Dynasty (618-907) remnant, according to Liang's judgment.

There are four pagodas in Zhengding with a history of more than 800 years. Such a number makes Zhengding a prominent city in China for historical heritage protection.

We took two days to cover most of the attractions of historical interest and wrapped up our tour of Zhengding by ascending the southern gate tower, which is a part of the ancient city wall.

To the south of the gate, we saw a skyline marked by a great number of skyscrapers. They belong to Shi­-jiazhuang, which used to be a part of Zhengding about eight decades ago. It is now the capital of Hebei province and an international metropolis.

To its north is the ancient city of Zhengding, marked by four landmark pagodas along its central axis, and a great number of old temples, streets and courtyards.

Here we felt like standing at a historical crossroads: a convergence of the past and present, of tradition and modernity.