A 36-year-old Chinese woman has become the first person from China and the third woman in the world to scale all 14 of the world's peaks over 8,000 meters without the use of supplemental oxygen.
He Jing, from Xi'an in Shaanxi province, reached the summit of the 8,027-meter Mount Shishapangma in China's Xizang autonomous region on Oct 9, completing her historic quest.
"I did what I was supposed to do, just at the right time," He told China Daily on Friday upon returning home, noting it was her personal way of celebrating the 75th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China.
He, who grew up on the Guanzhong Plain, didn't start mountaineering until she was 18. Her first climb, in 2006, was in the Qinling Mountains, and it sparked a passion for the sport.
In 2012, grieving the loss of her grandmother, He attempted her first mountain over 5,000 meters — Mount Siguniang in Sichuan province. The experience provided her with a sense of peace and relief.
"As I approached the summit and saw the rosy light on the snow, I found peace and a release from my inner turmoil," she recalled.
Since then, He has been dedicated to climbing high-altitude peaks. She summited her first 8,000-meter peak, Mount Cho Oyu, in 2016, using just one bottle of oxygen. Realizing she could handle the extreme altitude, she decided to attempt future climbs without oxygen, a move partly motivated by cost savings. Each climb above 8,000 meters can cost between 100,000 yuan ($14,000) and 400,000 yuan.
Climbing without oxygen carries significant risks due to the thin atmosphere at high altitudes. To prepare, He trained rigorously, running at least five times a week, climbing 200 flights of stairs with a 20-kilogram load three times weekly, and using an oxygen-restricting mask to simulate high-altitude conditions.
Her first successful summit without supplemental oxygen came on Sept 25, 2017, when she reached the top of Mount Manaslu in Nepal.
"At altitudes above 8,000 meters, the human brain experiences extreme hypoxia, and the body becomes lethargic. I kept telling myself not to fall asleep, as I might never wake up again," she said.
On May 14, 2022, He became the first Chinese woman to reach the summit of Mount Qomolangma (Everest) from the south side without using bottled oxygen.
"I didn't set many specific goals for myself," she said. "I simply love to pursue my dreams, one step at a time. I enjoy both the climbing process and the view from the summit."
He has lost climbing companions to avalanches and altitude sickness and has narrowly escaped death herself. In her diary, she wrote, "Death reminds us of life's fragility. Only by realizing this can we strive to make each moment meaningful."
Contact the writers at pengchao@chinadaily.com.cn